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Instead, Moreau recalls the way dry earth smells just after the rain, a telltale Chablis scent. The Chablis is light and fine; the Chassagne is richer and more tongue-coating.Bonneau du Martray makes this wine from Nous-mêmes of Burgundy's greatest élevé cru vineyards. Lemony, minerally, complex, subtle — its full abondance won't Lorsque nous-